6 Ways to Safely Transport a Kayak on your rooftop

Should I buy the expensive or cheap version?

When it comes to picking out how to transport your kayak don’t get caught up with keeping up with instagram and youtube. You just need to buy something that checks all your boxes and is within you means. If you are someone that can afford the finest quality products than there isn’t solutions better than Thule or Yakima. They use the best materials, they last the longest and you can really rely on them to perform and hold on to your kayak. Their fit and finish makes for easy installs and really gives you confidence is knowing your kayaks will be safe a secure.

However, the economic products will work just fine, you just have to be a little more diligent with them when it comes to maintenance and safety checks. They fit and finish is more in the “good enough” range but with little creative DIY mindset you can get the one-size-fits-all dialed in most vehicles.

Personally I have owned both. 30 years ago the market was much smaller so the only rack I could get that worked for both my mountain bikes and kayaks was a Thule. I bought their whole system and it was a highly engineered gem. It lasted me year round for 20 years in the harsh New England weather and only got rid of it because I bought a boat, sold all my kayaks and got a new truck. Then after five years of dealing with a whole in the water that I just kept throwing money into I sold the boat and went back to the paddle life. For the last several years have been using an Amazon brand of crossbars with Saddle and J-Bars that came in around $75 each. However, I have been thinking things are starting to look a little ratty so it might be time for an upgrade.

Resale value of your kayak rack isn’t always a good thing

One other thing I want to talk about is theft. Its a little sad I have to but I want to share all my experiences good and bad. So when it comes to transporting your kayak you need to think about where you park your vehicle when you go kayaking. I live in Southwest Florida and many of my launches are somewhat in the middle of nowhere secluded deep down a dirt road into the mangroves. Unfortunately these places can be a popular spot for smash and grab thieves looking for expensive fishing equipment to pawn. So I actually rest easy knowing that my cheap J-Bars have no aftermarket value and will be there when I get back. However, I also use launches in high-end neighbors parks and my truck is in plane view of pickleball players and all-day sheriff patrols so I could forget my wallet on the bumper and it would still be there when I got back. So you just have to calculate your risk is and factor it into your decision.

Saddle Pads – My #1 Recommendation for Transporting Any Kayak

Saddle Pads are the most versatile and easiest to use. Loading and Unloaded from a roof top is straight forward and almost a must on high roofs. I use mine for three different boats. I have them set so the fit the width of my two fishing kayaks and have them set on the cross bars so when I want to carry my canoe I can set my canoe upside down over the inside saddles and using the outside ones to keep it from sliding around.

When I had a Ford Expedition I used a set of saddles in the fron and rollers in the back which allowed me to roll the kayaks on and off from the back. It was pretty slick but some of my backcountry launches don’t always have the 40 feet needed to roll a 15ft kayak off a 20ft SUV. When I switched to a Toyota I went with all saddle pads and have never looked back.

My #1 Premium Pick
Thule DockGlide – Fits All Hull Shapes 
  • Easily load and unload with pivoting felt-lined saddles
  • Protect hull with large, flexible, cushioned pads
  • Fits a variety of systems, round bars and most factory racks
Economic Entry Level Pick
Onefeng 135LB Kayak Saddle
  • High strength aluminum&stainless hardware
  • Fits various shapes of max 4-1/3 inch (11cm) width crossbars
  • Adjustable saddle angle to fit any watercraft

J-Bars – Great for transporting more than one Kayak

J-Bar Systems are very common with smaller roofs or for multiple kayaks. But not all J-bars are created equal. You want to take into consideration the height of your roof and the amount of effort you will need to get your kayak up and over the lip of the lower part of the J. For higher roofs and steep angle on the lower part of the J can make it more difficult. However, a flatter lower section also means the kayak is more prone to slip off before you get it secure sending it crashing down on top of your door or side mirror. Also the pitch of the opening is also important. Some J-bars are narrow and designed for sit-in traditional narrow low-profile touring kayaks. Trying to stuff a big wide fishing kayak into one of them is going to be a challenge.

I currently have and entry level J-Bar on my 2003 Sequoia that I use as my secondary rack. My primary rack is a saddle rack because my kayaks are big fishing kayaks and a canoe. Do I have the J-Bars for when I travel with two boats and for what I need the cheap version worked great. But to be totally honest they don’t come close to the quality of a Thule and I have never felt comfortable that they wouldn’t fail at some point. So I make sure when I strap my kayak down I am strapping it to the truck rack and not relying on the J-Bar as my tie down point. This way if I do get a failure everything is still strapped to my truck. I have had my current j-bars for about two years and rust and oxidation is setting in, the UV has broken down the foam some and I have been thinking about replacing them. So if you do the math… To have a set of economic j-Bars for 20 years like a pair of Thule means you will have to buy them 4-5 times.

Here are some products I feel best fit everything I just talked about. I included two Thule racks because one folds down incase you need to get into you house or parking garage. It cost a bit more which is why I also include the solid one incase you don’t need it to fold. My recommendation is if you don’t need it fold don’t get those because moving parts usually break faster than non moving parts.

Premium Pick
Thule Hull-a-Port Rooftop Kayak Carrier
  • High-performance, easy to use
  • Thick all-weather pads
  • rust-resistant coating and hardware
  • Best Angled shape provides stable, space-saving design
Folds Flat
Thule Hull-a-Port XTR
  • Garage Friendly
  • Premium Quality and Function
  • Built to Last
  • Security Locking System
Economic Entry Level
HIGHRAZON J-Bar Rack
  • Multi-purpose roof racks
  • Basic Universal Install
  • Shorter Life Span
  • Mounting can be less than ideal

Roof Pads – No Rack Solution for the Casual Paddler

Roof pads are the easiest and most economical way to transport kayaks for those that like to paddle every now and then. When done right they offer adequate protection with an easy installation. Their biggest downside is that they have to be strapped to your roof by running straps through the door opening which can interfere with your head room limited where you can actually place the pads. Second, depending on the shape of your hull the pads maynot be high enough to keep it from rubbing on your cars surface. But if they do work for your hull they are a nice solution for someone that doesn’t want to drive around with a roof rack all the time or has more than one vehicle to transport their kayaks. A fishing buddy of mine made his own with pool noodles and straps and has been hauling around the same kayak I do for years. He has a small Honda Acura that he commutes to work with all week and then converts it to Kayak Hauler on the weekends. He also prefers the pads because his wife is a SUP paddler and they work perfect for paddle boards. So if this sounds like you your boxes are checked.

My No Rack Pick

Universal Soft Roof Rack Pads
  • No expensive fixed roof rack system
  • Built-in non-slip mat protects your car roof surface 
  • No tools required

Tips & Tricks

  • Click the More Info Buttons to make sure the rack you buy fits your factory cross-bars.
  • Make sure the factory cross bars are high enough off your roof to accommodate the brackets, bolts and T-nuts of the rack accessories. Some crossbars are flexible under load so take that into consideration as well especially if you are going to be transporting two heavy kayaks.
  • ALWAYS do a safety check on all mounts, brackets, and hardware before hitting the road. Seriously consider adding a safety strap incase one of these units where to fail. A 75lb kayak flying 10ft in the air on the interstate is a death missile and you are liable for your cargo on the road.
  • ALWAYS Use Heavy-Duty CAM straps. DO NOT use Ratchet straps nor cheap low budget straps.
Thule Load Straps
  • Heavy-duty nylon webbing is UV resistant
  • Steel cam-action buckles and protective Buckle Bumpers
YakAttack Cam Strap
  • Built for use in the harshest of marine conditions
  • am straps provide secure tension without causing kayak damage

If you want to take a deeper dive into kayak racks check out these posts about transporting Kayaks:

What is the best way to transport a kayak?

What is the Best kind of Roof Rack for Kayaks?

Disclaimer: The links I provide are to products that I do receive a small commision if you decided to purchase something. This revenue helps me run this website and keep things free for everyone to enjoy. Also, all of this info is just my the outcome of my experiences and are for just informational purposes. You need to do your own research and come to your own conclusions and decided what you think will work best for you.

Scroll to Top